Jul. 20, 2011 - Issue #822: CASH IN!
Three amigos
Tres Carnales is an authentic taqueria built on a strong bond
» The house that carnales built / Bryan Birtles
Braun, Sills and Gutierrez hail from diverse backgrounds and were united by a shared passion for the food industry and Mexican street food.
"I worked in both casual and fine dining in Edmonton and Victoria for almost 20 years," Edmonton-raised Sills recounts, "but decided to drop everything and go surfing in Mexico and Central America."
Gutierrez is a Red Seal chef with an enviable resume that includes Copper Pot, Normand's and Hundred Bar and Kitchen. Braun grew up in León, Mexico, and immersed himself in the food industry at the tender age of 17. Love and, eventually, a Canadian wife brought Braun to Edmonton. He remarks, "I've worked in a number of restaurants here and it gave me a good feel for how things work here compared to Mexico."
"In Mexico," explains Braun, "you order as many tacos as you can eat and pay afterwards, like an honour system."
The Carnales trio recreates this self-accountable method; a customer chooses his or her food and drink and the tab may be closed, where one pays immediately, or open, where one continues to order food until satiated. "It gets loud and crazy in here, but already we're recognizing repeat customers and learning names," says Sills.
Tres Carnales joins a growing roster of eateries recolonizing Rice Howard Way. "We went through three real estate agents," relates Sills, "and we found this place by chance."
The three restaurateurs imported much of the décor from Mexico, which adds to the establishment's authentic and decidedly non-kitschy feel.
"It's a labour of love for all of us," affirms Braun. Sills agrees and adds, "We just built the kind of restaurant we wanted to work in. And in a perfect world, there would be a beach out there for surfing!"
The taqueria is amongst a scant few restaurants in Edmonton that prepare authentic Latin American food, as opposed to the heavily Americanized Tex-Mex with which many diners are accustomed. "We've had some people asking for nachos and burritos," notes Sills, "but Mexican people don't eat like that. It's tourist stuff." The menu is chiefly comprised of tacos and tortas (sandwiches) in a tantalizing spectrum of flavours. Among these seven flavours are Al Pastor, which features pork shoulder with tomatoes, cilantro and guacamole, and Vegeteriano, which includes grilled chilies and corn. "We wanted to showcase real Mexican food so that it becomes a cultural experience," Braun says.
"The bottom line for restaurants in Mexico or Canada is to make people happy," smiles Braun. Diners are clearly happy at Tres Carnales: the enthusiastic response bespeaks hunger for an authentic taqueria. Braun, Sills and Gutierrez chuckle that their restaurant's name is often the subject of mistranslation. Sills laughs, "It's not Tres Carnes, which would mean 'three meats.' 'Carnales' is Mexican slang for something like 'homeboy' or 'of the flesh.' It means a stronger bond than just friends."
Tres Carnales
10119 - 100A St
780.429.0911 vueweekly.com comments: powered by Disqus
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