Jul. 28, 2010 - Issue #771: Young at Heart

Revue

Suburban subversion

Southwest bistro bucks geographic stereotypes

Like the concentric growth rings of a tree, suburbs have grown around cities en masse since the mid-1950s. They are rarely renowned for their amenities—corner stores, gas stations and so forth—let alone luxuries such as coffee shops and diners. Rather, the North American suburb is defined by complex mazes of crescents and cul-de-sacs, large garages intended for multiple vehicles, gated communities with trendy names and large houses that frequently display an alarming degree of sameness. Through the lens of post-modern urban cynicism, this epitomizes ant-like conformity for the masses. This rather dim view of Suburbia is tempered, though, by the presence of a perennially busy bakery-bistro wedged in the city's ever-sprawling southwest.

Fresh Start Bistro occupies the centre of Riverbend Square, sheltered from busy roads by a curtain of gangly deciduous trees and burnished umber venetian blinds. The carefree intonations of background music are scarcely audible above the sizable weekend crowd, which spills through a side door onto a makeshift sidewalk patio. To maximize efficiency, one orders at the front counter, takes a number and awaits their chosen victuals at any number of comfortable tables or benches. Fresh Start's menu covers considerable ground. Grilled panini, quiche and hamburgers are available, but their offerings are clearly skewed towards brunch. Hence, we order the Croissant Melt ($9.99), Cinnamon French Toast ($9.99) and Smoked Salmon on a Bagel ($9.99).

I am content to sip a mug of well-bodied coffee ($2.99) and contemplate the olive-grey houses in repose beyond the aspen trees. My smoked salmon bagel arrives in short order, followed by the croissant melt and French toast. Coral-pink slices of smoked salmon are loosely folded like cloth handkerchiefs and topped with a scatter of celadon capers and several rings of sharp purple onion. They recline atop two halves of an in-house baked bagel, which itself is rather dense. Its piscine and botanical accoutrements, however, deftly balance a sly whisper of smoke with peppery bite.

Cinnamon French toast (or "Freedom toast" if one subscribes to GW Bush's short-lived snubbing of all things Gallic) features four triangles of multigrain bread caressed with caramel sauce, sliced strawberries and toothsome slices of apple. The eponymous spice infuses, but does not overwhelm, each morsel of bread and fruit. The toast itself succeeds with uniform tenderness and nary a hint of crusty edges, and the generous drizzle of caramel sauce trumps any need for syrup.

The croissant melt compiles multiple brunch components into sandwich form. Scrambled eggs are liberally flecked with red and green peppers and laced with cheddar cheese. Combining the cheddar with the egg avoids the deluge of grease that typically ensues when a breakfast sandwich is crowned with a slice of cheese. Two thick slices of bacon walk the line between crunchy and soft, while the croissant itself is devilishly flaky. A side of fried potatoes is dusted with paprika and rosemary, a worthy stand-in for hash browns.

One minor quibble concerns the fruit cup that accompanies each dish. So many fruits and berries are in season, and yet this cup contains primarily cantaloupe and honeydew melon. A few lonely pieces of fresh pineapple provide zippy contrast to the melons' musky sweetness, but the entire composition would be much improved by, at the very least, some strawberries or grapes.

A strategically placed display of pastries, cookies and squares tempts those not yet satiated by bacon and bagels. All are made from scratch in Fresh Start's kitchen and, though it is indeed a difficult decision, we select a Raspberry Coconut Square ($3.99) and Chocolate Pecan Tart ($4.99). The square is attractively crosshatched with glossy crimson raspberry ribbons atop a meringue-like cloud of coconut. It is remarkably light and sings with the vivid vibrancy of berries. The tart is the raspberry square's seductive antithesis: a buttery pastry shell crowded with rich pecans and dark chocolate. They are a sweet, but not excessive coda to a solid brunch. The suburbs do lack the gastronomical diversity of established, central neighbourhoods. Fresh Start Bistro, however, attests that Suburbia is far from a culinary wasteland. V

mon – thu, sat (7 am – 5 pm), Fri (7 am – 7 pm), sun (9 am – 3 pm)
fresh start bistro
484 riverbend square
780.433.9623

More info about Fresh Start Bistro →

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