Aug. 05, 2009 - Issue #720: The Season 2009

Living Proof

Jealous?

You only want what you can't have

I must preface this column with an apology. It's unkind and perhaps irresponsible to regale readers with details of a product that isn't available in this country. However, this is a exactly what I'm about to do. If I were you, I'd be drafting letters of complaint to the editor before I even finished reading, if only because St. Germain elderflower liqueur is so lovely that it's nearly irresistible. It's the sort of thing that I can't imagine anyone not wanting, and not having the option to rush down to Sherbrooke or Chateau Louis to buy it right away is infuriating.

St. Germain doesn't have distribution in Canada yet, perhaps because of its relative novelty. It was only released in 2007, but it is taking the American cocktail scene by storm, appearing in magazines, blogs and all the best bars. Thanks to all its exposure and praise, when I took a trip to the States, picking up a bottle was at the top of my list. It's worth the trip.

St. Germain is made from the fragrant flowers of the elderberry, which are harvested in the spring of every year by French farmers on bicycles (according to the ad copy), a romantic slow-moving image. Image is an important part of St. Germain, including its gorgeous French art deco-inspired bottle, which I'm sure adds to its price. Luckily, the liqueur tastes as great as it looks. St. Germain has a sweet, obviously floral taste with a scent that hints at pear and citrus. While it's sweet and thick, it's not syrupy and its sweetness marries well with juices and other alcohols. It keeps things light without necessitating the addition of any extra sugar.

Because St. Germain tastes of flowers, it's perhaps not an intuitive mixer, but its delicate flavour asserts itself and enhances drinks without overpowering them. I loved it mixed with lime juice and soda to make a limeade cordial that's perfect for summer balcony sitting. It also connects well with dry white and sparkling wine, where the the St. Germain adds aroma and the wine counteracts its sweetness. Another option for using St. Germain is to mix it with gin or vodka with a splash of dry vermouth for a romantic, delicate martini.

I've made four drinks with St. Germain so far. It would be more but I'm rationing (it's that good). Every drink has been the kind of thing that invites you to sit down, sip slowly and maybe even close your eyes. I'm not telling you about St. Germain to taunt you but to tempt you. If you're taking a trip, put this on your list. If you're not going anywhere anytime soon, contact St. Germain and ask them when they're coming to Canada. For the time being, try this workaround: IKEA carries bottles of elderflower drink concentrate. Try mixing it in a 1:1 ratio with vodka and using that in your drinks. Almost as good as the real thing. V

St. Germain Cocktail 

This is St. Germain's signature recipe. Try swapping the wine for champagne if you've got some around.

Combine all ingredients over ice in a tall glass and stir. Garnish with a lemon twist if you like. V

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