Feb. 03, 2010 - Issue #746: Spine

Little Persia

Healthy food and a big dose of national pride fills Sabzy

Taking a break from the bustle of Whyte Avenue, I wandered into Sabzy the other evening to check out what Persian cuisine is all about. As I stepped inside, the interior was different than I had perhaps anticipated, and it proved to be the first in a number in ways Sabzy defied expectations.

The space was bright and airy, adorned with simple but functional furnishings. There was a large number of tables, but also some cozy nooks to puff away on a hookah. Sabzy seems a little unsure as to whether it is restaurant or café, but judging by the number of people filling the seats early on a Thursday, the distinction did not seem to matter to their patrons.

One of the family members running Sabzy greeted me at the table with a menu. As I mulled over which style of coffee to drink, I couldn't help but resist this woman's natural charm. As she spoke of the daily specials, it was clear that she was very passionate about her culture and food, and was eager to share.

My cappuccino ($3.75) appeared at my table in about five minutes. The mound of perfectly thick and creamy foam was worth the wait. My co-diner arrived, settled in and opted for a honey chai tea ($3.75) to ward off the cold from outside. Chai tea is truly satisfying when done right, but I've had too many sickly sweet concoctions and usually avoid ordering it. However, this chai tea, like my coffee, was a mini-masterpiece—a perfect balance between sweet and spice.

We settled on the trio of dips with pita chips ($10) to nibble on as the rest of our food was being prepared. Included on the platter was the must'o khee-yar dip (yogurt, cucumber, herbs), the must'o moo-seer dip (yogurt, wild shallots, herbs) and simple spinach dip. Exotic sounding dishes but extremely familiar flavours were revealed when we dug into the dips. For example, the must'o khee-yar dip was very similar to tzatziki, except for instead of shredded cucumber it was diced. All the dips were yogurt based and mild in flavour, and as a result the platter lacked variety. Better off only sampling one and trying something else.

Good things come wrapped in pitas, so I chose the kobeedah wrap ($8). The hand-formed mixture of ground lamb and beef was well seasoned, and grilled just right. The acidic bite of fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and a signature yogurt sauce cut through the richness of the meat. Overall, this wrap was light and fresh, and I didn't experience the guilt that comes from eating the mystery meat on a donair.

On special for the evening was a homemade chicken stew ($15 with rice). Slow cooked, the chicken fell apart at the touch of a fork. However, the flavour of the stew did not live up to promises. After listening to the description we both expected a dish with slightly more complexity, as the inclusion of herbs was emphasized. However, the only flavour that shined was the sweetness from the tomato-based sauce.

Keeping with their philosophy, Sabzy scores big points in offering healthy, homemade food. It provides a good nutritious food alternative on Whyte Avenue. Perhaps the food didn't strike my palate with a big wow factor, but I did get a big taste of cultural pride, which I had not anticipated. V

Mon (3 pm – 9 pm); Tue – Sun (11 am – 9 pm)
Sabzy
10416 - 82 Ave
780.758.1005‎
 

More info about Sabzy →

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