Oct. 29, 2008 - Issue #680: Palace of the End
I Hardly Know ‘Er: Rum for the hills
Rum’s history is bound to the history of the new world, especially, unfortunately, its unpleasant underbelly. Rum lubricated the slave trade and became the official drink of the English Navy, which in the beginning issued rum in daily half-pint rations. The crude rum was very strong, and sailors got in accidents, in some cases even falling overboard. Needless to say, the ration was adjusted. In America, rum played a role in the Revolutionary War and later became a drink of choice during prohibition, when it was smuggled into every speakeasy by a cast of nefarious characters, including Al Capone. For centuries, rum has been associated with pirates, smugglers and ne’er-do-wells.
There are three main sorts of rum, and these rums are produced in dozens of countries, resulting in a huge proliferation of types and flavours. Light rum, the initial result of distillation, is usually unaged and as clear as vodka. Next are amber and dark rum, which have more complexity to their flavours as they have been aged in charred oak casks, and are usually a blend of two or more rums.
As I am nothing but dedicated, I tested three types for this column. The light (Havana Club) had a touch of ethanol smell, with an almost apple-like aroma. Its not-too-dry flavour goes well in a cocktail. The amber (Appleton V/X) was smoother and more caramel-like, with a hint of its molasses origins. Amber rum is a good mixer, giving rum flavour without being too assertive. The dark (Gosling’s Black Seal) smelled sweet, but tasted very robust and added an almost muddy complexity to cocktails—this one definitely wouldn’t go in a mojito, but it holds its own in more intense mixes.
If you’re looking to branch out your rum selection, I suggest looking for an amber rum. If you buy a good anejo (aged) rum, you can sip it neat like you would a fine scotch. In fact, rum is the cheapest of premium spirits, offering quality at cut-rate prices.
For cocktails, give up fruity faux-exotic and try the Harpo’s Special, which contains a dash of bitters and a more obscure choice, orange curacao. If you can’t drink rum without something bubbly, try the Dark and Stormy. And if you really can’t give up Coke, mix it with amber rum and temper its sweetness with the juice of half a lime to make a Cuba Libre—the lime adds character to the drink, and cuts its cloying sweetness.
Interesting doesn’t have to mean obscure. Rum’s stranger than you think. Give it a chance to surprise you. V
Harpo’s Special
This drink calls for orange curacao, which differs from blue mostly in colour. Look for Meagher’s “Grand Curacao.” As blue would ruin the colour of this drink, substitute cointreau or triple sec if you can’t find non-blue curacao.
Combine all ingredients in an ice-filled cocktail shaker, shake, strain, and serve in a cocktail glass.
Dark ’n’ Stormy
This is Bermuda’s national drink, and it’s trademarked to Gosling’s rum. To make a rum n’ ginger, feel free to branch out to other brands, maybe even trying an amber rum. If you want a dark rum in your arsenal, though, do try Gosling’s.
Pour rum over ice in a highball glass and mix it. Top up the glass with ginger beer, and add a slice of lime to the rim.
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