Week of October 13, 2005, Issue #521
DISH
The greatest story ever stirfried
By CHRISTOPHER THRALL
“Tell us the story of the Wok King!”
Conversation stopped on the hot table as every dish turned its attention to
the Egg Foo Yung. “Haven’t you already heard that story?”
Egg teased; it had been around the mall kiosk the longest and was always pressed
for stories by the fresher dishes. The story of the Wok King was their favourite,
however.
Harsh lighting from the food court cast shadows across its craggy surface as
Egg began, “There exists a place…” A couple of voices from
the ginger beef echoed the oft-repeated tale, but Egg waited until silence returned.
“There exists a place far from any mall,” Egg began again, “a
cheerful place where visitors are greeted with an aquarium full of carp. There
are powder pink tablecloths under plastic covers, and turntables on every table.
Traditional Chinese décor lines the walls on three sides and on the fourth,
floor-to-ceiling windows gaze upon the Outside.”
“The Outside…” murmured the dishes in unison.
“This happiest place of all is called the Wok King Seafood Restaurant,”
Egg whispered. “At the Wok King, green tea is served to every guest and
the menu goes on forever.”
“The menu goes on forever,” Egg repeated, “from snacks and
congee to noodle dishes, bean curd and hot pots with a variety of meats!”
They despaired at the eight stainless steel bins that held the range of choices
at their kiosk. “The prices average under $12,” Egg continued, “and
the house combinations offer more variety than you can dream.”
“I heard of one group who went,” Egg shared, settling into the story.
“They ordered the Combination for Two at $22.50, then added another person
for $9. The fourth person of the group—a vegetarian—added the Pan-Fried
Shrimp with Chili for $13.50!” The hot table tittered with delight as
one of the Sacred Four was included in the tale. They couldn’t imagine
real shrimp in Asian cuisine.
“The wonton soup arrives immediately, not strongly flavoured, but very
nuanced,” Egg goes on, “with a range of vegetables and plenty of
meaty wontons.” The anemic broth in a nearby tureen splashed wistfully.
“Spring rolls are crisp and served with a mild homemade dipping sauce.
Soon, five heaping platters are brought to the table at the same time as two
other guests arrive!” The chow mein gasped: what would they do? They only
ordered for four people!
“The group gazed upon the bounty and decided not to order more,”
Egg murmured. “The chicken fried rice provided a moist, flavourful base
to the other dishes. Both the chicken chop suey and the sweet and sour ribs
struck a fine balance between tender meats and crisp vegetables, but the rich,
delicate sweet & sour sauce was treasured.” Nearby, the sweet and
sour pork sank a little lower, ashamed of its gristly meat and gloopy sauce.
“Beef ‘n’ greens delighted everyone with succulent meat mixed
with a host of crisp vegetables in a light soya glaze. But the real winner of
the evening,” Egg began, its own excitement mounting, “was the vegetarian’s
add-on. Though the menu warned of heat, the Pan-Fried Shrimp with Chili offered
a mild bite that perfectly balanced the loads of juicy shrimp and crisp pea
pods!” The other dishes broke into a spontaneous cheer. “Even the
largest appetites around the table were blunted. All six ate a meal meant for
four and the remainder fit into a single take-out container.”
“But what of the price?” asked the lemon chicken in a small voice.
“All six dined for under $10 each, including tax and tip,” Egg replied
indulgently. Each dish peered upwards at the prices above their hot table and
realized that there wasn’t much of a difference. Why would anyone come
to them when the Wok King was possible?
“And the Wok King’s promise?” the ginger beef asked, irritated
that the flow of the story was broken.
“Ah, yes: a promise was made to every fast food kiosk,” Egg smiled,
reciting the food bins’ most sacred belief. “Any dish that worked
hard to be the tastiest, most satisfying mall cuisine could become one of the
Four!” Everyone chimed in: “Black Pepper Chicken, Rock Cod with
Corn Sauce, Pork Canton or Pan Fried-Shrimp with Chili!”
Unexpectedly, a serving spoon flashed and Egg Foo Yung was lifted on to the
plate of a mallrat. “Goodbye!” the other dishes chorused. “May
we meet again at the Wok King!” Egg prayed that they would, and that they
would keep the stories alive. V
Wok King Seafood Restaurant
10013 - 106 Avenue • 423-3743