Week of November 26, 2009, Issue #736
DISH
Veni, Vidi, Vino: Oregon trail
Young wine-making culture yields some surprising finds
Mike Angus / mikeangus@vueweekly.com
For four decades now, Oregon wines have surprised the world with their quality, variety and innovation. When a group of rebel cork dorks left the hallowed halls of the University of California's eminent school for viticulture and enology to try their luck pioneering Oregon's cool climate back in the late 1970s, few thought they were capable of what the region is now known for: producing world-class wines in terms of uncompromising Old World style and New World originality.
For starters, you'll find both cool and warm climates within miles of each other, complimenting the perfect terroir for Burgundy-style wines—just like Burgundy boss Robert Drouhin did, establishing Domaine Drouhin just outside of Portland in 1987. No doubt, Drouhin was just as shocked as the rest of the wine world when, in 1979, Oregon's little-known Eyrie Vineyard Pinot Noir came third in the world's Wine Olympics, beating the French at their own game. Since then, Oregon has practically become synonymous with Pinot. Try a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir from Shea Wine Cellars or Argyle Winery, or a Pinot Gris from Four Graces for fans of white wine. But be forewarned, these wines come with a higher price tag. For the budget-friendly drinker, track down Wine By Joe or Firesteed.
It's the adherence to traditional wine crafting and unique soil conditions that has allowed Oregon's reputation to take off. Just because the state can't compete with California's production volume merely means they've been able to focus on crafting smaller vintages of higher quality. Yet as a New World producer, Oregon also benefits from the confidence and no-rules mentality that comes from pioneering. Not only have some Oregon winemakers done away with rulebooks, they've become world leaders in sustainable, organic and biodynamic farming and wine making. For an example of a certified organic choice, try finding King Estate or Sokol Blosser.
Another benefit of such a young wine-growing culture means that winemakers are ready to take risks and produce unorthodox wines. Take Sokol Blosser's Meditrina—a zesty, easy-drinking blend of Zinfandel, Syrah and Pinot Noir—or their Evolution blend of nine white grapes, for just two examples of rogue winemaking. Though Oregon's state laws for export can limit the selection here in Canada, the wines you will find are sure to pique your interest and leave you wanting more. V
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